The problem with non functioning model 1000's is the piston shock absorber, part #38(12ga) or #39(20ga). The S&W model 1000 shotguns were mfg.

1972-1984 and a lot of them started showing up on the used gun market in the late 1980's at really low prices. Then after the 1991 ban on lead shot for waterfowl hunting a lot of the Magnum and Super models started showing up real cheap also.

The reason for the low prices was the gun didn't function 100%. The piston shock absorbers due to age/use would become soft and deformed. They would get gooey enough to smear getting on all the gas system parts.

This combined with the fouling in the gas system would increse friction slowing down the working of the action. It has been over 10 years since I fixed a friends Magnum model 1000 and can't remember the solvent I used to disolve the plastic of the piston shock absorber on the gas system parts. But I scrubbed all the gas system parts clean,lubed them,and replaced the piston shock absorber on his shotgun.

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After that it functioned 100% with 2-3/4' heavy loads,buckshot,slugs and 3' shells. JA is correct.that piston shock absorber tends to melt with solvents.especially Hoppes and BreakFree. When this happens, the mag tube needs to be completely cleaned and the shock absorber (O-ring) replaced. If this is not done in time, the link that connects the inner piston to the outer sleeve will slam rearward too far and damage its slot in the mag tube.

You can get new O-rings from Lone Star, in Plano, Texas, but it's a better idea to replace the O-ring with a leather disc cut out of a piece of thick cowhide. This will outlast the O-ring absorber by a great deal.

Another source of trouble with the non-super models is the gas relief valve in the end of the mag tube. In the Super models, this can be taken apart and serviced, but in the earlier Model 1000's, it can not. I keep a plug around to test these. It is a solid piece that replaces the valve for testing purposes. If the valve is stuck in its open position, the shotgun will not be provided with enough gas to reliably operate the action. The shock absorber is easy to replace after you disassemble the gas mechanism. If you do not have a manual you may be able to get one from Smith and Wesson.

If not, there are exploded parts diagrams (schematics) viewable. They also carry some replacement parts for the Model 1000. Download Free Email Outlook Pdf Student Web Apps.

You should disassemble the gas mechanism and remove the magazine spring in order to fully clean the gun. You must also clean the exterior of the gas/magazine tube if your original shock absorber melted and gummed up the works. As mentioned in another post the part may be available from but they are currently closed due to a fire. There are some alternatives to ordering the shock aborbers from the sources mentioned above (and paying much less). Remove the gas piston and take it with you to a good hardware store or home improvement store (Home Depot or Lowes). Find an o-ring that is the same diameter as the piston.

The o-ring should be at least 1/8 inch thick. An even better solution is to find a rubber faucet washer the diameter of the piston with a hole in the center. Sap Material Free Download. Again, get a washer at least 1/8 inch thick. If the washer has a raised boss in the center area you should trim it off flush with the rest of washer using a razor blade. This is what I use in my 12 guage Model 1000 and it has shown no deterioration in several years of use. I think that you will enjoy the gun once you get it operating correctly. Good advice from everyone.

I have a 12ga mod 1000 super 12, that I had the same problem with.Took it apart cleaned the disolved rubber o-ring recoil buffer out, installed a new one from lone star guns and cleaned & lubed the whole gun with g-96. Still would not eject the 2nd shell.discovered a plastic disc screwed into the under side of the threaded cap that holds the barrel and forearm in place. This disc is flat on one side and sort of cone shaped on the other and is threaded all the way thru so it can be mounted either way- flat side toward the gas piston or cone side toward the gas piston. When I remounted this disc so the cone side faced the gas piston and the flat side was against the bottom side of the threaded cap the gun worked perfectly. Because I don't have a manual for this gun,I have no idea if this installation is correct, but it works. I would love to have someone fax me those pages of the manual that deal with the spring loaded gas valve and the end cap. I realize that this is a bit of an older string, but I recently bought a Smith & Wesson Model 1000 in 20 gauge through Gunbroker.com.

I love the lines and sleekness of the gun. The first lesson I learned is to safely take every new/old gun apart and make sure that all the parts are there before shooting. A simple cleaning is not enough. In my case, this past weekend of the opening of Dove season in South Texas, my gun jammed after approximately 7 shots.

The action would stick about half way closed and not eject the spent shell casing. Luckily, I brought a spare shotgun, my over/under Weatherby, so I could continue the hunt. But what I found was that the Piston Shock Absorber (Part#38 in e-gunparts) was missing. And by shooting in this condition, it flared the magazine tube at the slots and thus restricted the Action Bar Sleeve from cycling. I am waiting on the part from e-Gunparts, and also on a hard surface, hammered the magazine tube flared areas at the slot back down again carefully. I now have a fully cycling shotgun again.

Cannot wait for the part, and then hit the filed again. I just installed a new piston shock absorber in my 20 gauge Smith and Wesson Model 1000 shotgun. I bought the piston shock absorber from Numrich. It was only a couple of bucks. I'm going to the skeet range tomorrow. I hope it works.

See update below) I thouroughly cleaned the magazine tube and everything in (and on) it from the fore end cap, down through the pressure compensator valve assembly, the piston, the magazine spring washer, the spring and even the magazine follower. As I was reassembling, I came up with a few questions.

Any S&W 1000 owners out there that can help? As I slid the piston up and down (from top to bottom,) I felt the piston rub on the magazine tube. It travels all the way, its just that I feel some slight resistance in a couple of sposts. Its not the same force all the way through its travel - top to bottom. Is a very slight rub normal? Does anyone have the min max ID / OD specs? With the piston full down, it didnt feel like it was resting on the piston shock absorber.

It sounded like the piston pin was hitting the bottom of the slots that it rides in. Shouldnt the piston hit the shock aborber, and shouldnt the pin not hit the bottom of the slot? Is there supposed to be a tiny hole in the middle of the bottom end on a normal pressure compensator valve?

If so, I need to remove mine and rod it out and get the hole back. Any ideas on how I can figure out if I need a new one? Related question: Why does the end cap have a tiny hole in the middle? Are the piston and the pressure compensator valves supposed to be loose and sloppy or tight and rubbing in the magazine tube? I figure the answer to this question will let us know if this is the actual cause of the jams (failure to eject spent shell completely) Thanks Bud ***UPDATE*** Yes! It works like a charm!

Removing the goo that was the old piston shock absorber, and replacing it with a new one made all the difference. Man this is a sweet shooting gun. Also I found that the little rubbing of the piston in the magazine tube that I was worried about yesterday must not be all that objectionable. I used Federal ammo that I bought at WalMart for $21 for the value pack of 100 shells and had no problems. (2-3/4 inch, 2-1/2 Dram Eq., 7/8 oz., 7-1/2 shot, Muzzle Velocity 1200 FPS) I went to the Tom Lowe Shooting Grounds down in Atlanta. Shot some skeet.

This little 20 is a pleasure to shoot. Perceived recoil is minimal.

The gun is well balanced. And the trap and skeet range was a nice find.

It's near the Atlanta Hartsfield Jackson Airport I have lots of photos of the innards of this firearm. I think I'll put together a blurb of my photos so it may help someone down the road. Right after I clean my gun. Katy The biggest problem was the rubber ring disintergrating and subsequent shooting damaging the magazine tube. The original ring was rubber and would dissolve with conventional oils and solvents; there is a neoprene replacement that resists oils and solvents.The magazine tube is stainless steel and not cheap. However, they could be honed and fixed most of the time.

The gas system should be 'run' dry, that is no to VERY minimal oil.not needed there. When you purchase a used one, the bolt is opened and the shotgun tilted up and down to check for free movement of the piston in the magazine tube. It will rise and fall.kerplunk.kerplunk:^) I like my 1000M. They have great wood and real checkering.just have a querk for the uninformed.

Once they are corrected or if owned responsibly, they shoot like a dream. There is a gunsmith in Commanche, Texas that purchased all of S&W shotgun parts. He can fix it correctly if needed.Frank Smith. _________________ kivaari over 3,000 quality sks trigger tunes.one at a time NRA Endowment Member Texas State Rifle Assoc Life Member. Boy am I late to the party.

I agree with everything said as I have the same problem. Frank at LSG is closed for the holidays so I thought I'd ask a couple of questions here. My 1000 was malfunctioning as mentioned so I took it to a gunsmith for through cleaning and repair.

When I got it back it was good for about 75 shots before it wouldn't reload an occasional shell. An internet search revealed the shock washer problem and the suggestion to make one out of a garden hose washer (I like the leather idea better). I used a bright yellow washer and it was good for 7 shots. When I removed it there was dark gum on it. (I should state that mine was missing entirely along with the follow washer) What this tells me is: 1. It never got a good cleaning & 2.

The gum is probably the remnants of the original washer. So I removed it and soon had trigger problems. I went to fire it and the trigger wouldn't work. I loaded a new shell and the trigger worked but barely dimpled the shotgun shell, leaving it unfired. My g-smith is an hour away and won't take it apart while I wait so instead of wasting driving time I'd rather do it myself. So my questions: How do I disassemble the recoil spring mechanism?

And can this problem be related to my trigger issues? Thanks in Advance, Calisdad. The soft hammer strike of the firing pin is a totally diffrent problem. I had the same problem with my model 1000,,,soft strikes that would not dimple the primer enough to fire. There is one small compression spring that that makes the hammer srtike the firing pin.

First clean the tigger mech. And try that. That helped my gun alot but I still had some problems so I replaced the spring and it was all good. Best advise is buy a snap cap shell and fire the trigger before storing your gun. This releaves the pressure on that compression spring. My gun sat for years with that spring compressed.